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Magazine

もっと日本酒のおいしさを知ってもらいたい![酒呑 にし川]西川さんが抱く日本酒への熱い想い

I want people to know more about the taste of sake! [Mr. Nishikawa's Passion for Sake

If you like Japanese sake, you will want to visit Sake-Ton NISHIKAWA more than once. The Gojo Kawaramachi store offers a lineup of premium sake, and "Assemblage Club: Taro" is said to be gaining popularity as a slightly special bottle. We interviewed the owner, Mr. Naoki Nishikawa, about the reason for the popularity and his thoughts on sake.


Table of Contents



Naoki Nishikawa, owner

Born in Kyoto in 1983. Moved to Chiba, entered Senshu University School of Business Administration from Meidai Nakano High School, but dropped out to pursue a career in the restaurant industry; after working in restaurants and bars in Ginza for 6 years, he returned to school to relearn management and graduated. After working at Restaurant Keio, he worked as the managing director at Endo, a long-established tempura restaurant that was his mother's family home, before setting up his own restaurant in 2019.



1. enjoy rare and famous sake without any fuss


酒呑 にし川

This popular store is trusted by sake fans and offers a variety of rare sake that is hard to find in the Kansai region at reasonable prices. The shop boasts a lineup of more than 100 varieties of sake, mainly trendy brands of the moment. The sake comparison sets are especially good value, with a set of three types of "Shinmasa" and a limited edition sake set including an assemblage club both priced at 1980 yen, and a set of about 40 types of standard sake available for 980 yen.

The menu is rich in dishes, including a wide variety of fresh fish, a dish that incorporates Kyoto vegetables and seasonal ingredients, and tempura, all of which are listed on the blackboard menu on the wall. The menu is very generous in volume, so be careful when ordering.



2. conveying our commitment on behalf of the sake brewery



-What are your thoughts on sake?

Mr. Nishikawa: "Every time I visit a sake brewery, I feel that they all have strong feelings and commitment to their products, and I hope to convey this to our customers. In order to convey this to our customers, our concept is not to charge high prices, but to allow our customers to enjoy our sake in a casual manner.


-I am indeed surprised that even rare sake is affordable.

Mr. Nishikawa: "Customers also tell us, 'It's quite inexpensive; in Tokyo it would cost two to three times as much. Basically, we don't have a standard brand, but change it every day, so you can enjoy a new sake every time you come. We hope you will enjoy the seasonal changes as well. We also serve seasonal dishes such as Manganji chili peppers, Kamo eggplants, and pike conger eel in the summer.


-I am glad that the Assemblage Club has been added to the list of distinguished wines.

Mr. Nishikawa: "I thought it was interesting to combine sake from Tokubei Masuda Shoten (Tsukitsukatsura), Kitagawa Honke (Tomio), and Matsui Shuzo (Jinzo). It also has a rare value in that it is not sold on the market.



3. what is the attraction of an assemblage club?



-What are your own impressions after trying it?

Mr. Nishikawa said, "The red "Taro" is robust but has no bitterness, expressing the pure taste of rice in a straightforward manner. In wine terms, it is almost full-bodied, but it is still very smooth on the throat, and I felt it was made to go well with meat as a food wine. The blue "Sophia" is a bit acidic and light. As the concept suggests, it is certainly easy to pair with Italian food. I think this one is even better when it is crisp and chilled. Both have their own character and are very good sakes."





4. assemblage club x cuisine


Kyoto Kamo eggplant with minced meat sauce 980 yen, "Assemblage Club: Taro" 980 yen (60 ml)

Kamo eggplants are a typical summer vegetable from Kyoto and have a lovely round shape. This dish is made by deep-frying the firm eggplants so that their sweetness is enhanced, and then tossing them in a rich chicken-stuffed starchy sauce. The thickly seasoned chicken minced meat sauce is a perfect match for the robust flavor of the Taro, which complements the meat dish.



Manganji chili tempura 980 yen, "Assemblage Club: Sophia" 980 yen (60 ml)

The volume of the heaping pile is breathtaking. The Manganji chili tempura, with its sweetness and aroma locked in the crispy batter, can be enjoyed both ways, first with natural salt from the Himalayas and a squeeze of sudachi (Japanese citrus juice), and then dipped into a generous amount of tempura sauce. The acidity of the Sophia cuts through the aftertaste of the oil, making the dish refreshing and enjoyable to eat.



5. want to help increase the population of sake



-Please let us know if there is anything you would like to work on in the future.

Mr. Nishikawa: "We would like to increase the number of people who drink sake. I think it will be important to communicate the appeal of the Kyoto brand and the Japanese brand of sake. In order to help in this effort, we are gradually increasing the number of our stores, and in February of this year, we opened our third store, Sake Brewery Nishikawa Sikisuite at Kyoto Umekoji Hotel, following the Yanagikoji store. We also hold events inviting sake brewers, although these events are held irregularly."


The best way to fall in love with sake is to encounter good sake. [We are sure that everyone who visits Sake-Ton NISHIKAWA will be awakened to the deliciousness of sake. We hope that NISHIKAWA will continue to serve as a bridge to sake breweries and increase the number of sake fans.




Writer and sake taster Eriko Fujita
He was introduced to a wide variety of sake and sake breweries by a sake specialty store in Osaka that expanded his world. His favorite sake is Akirika and Ohroku, and his other hobbies include collecting minerals and keeping swallowtail butterflies.


Sake-drinking Nishikawa Kawaramachi-Gojo
address (e.g. of house) Urban Stage Kawaramachi 1F, 615 Azuchi-cho, Shimogyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
TEL 080-2479-2424
home page https://www.instagram.com/nishikawa_sake
Business Hours 17:00 - 1:00 the next day (LO / 24:30)
regular closing day Unscheduled holidays (once or twice a month)